Lava Tubes

Undara reputedly has the best preserved lava tubes on the planet. These are the result of a significant volcanic event some 190,000 years ago. Not the kind of volcanic eruption commonly associated with cone shaped mountains as we saw on full display at Tanna Island. The Undara volcanic eruption was a massive larva spew that continued uninterrupted for many years. As multiple rivers of red-hot lava oozed their way outwards from the volcanic vent they cooled and solidified, first on the exterior, leaving leaving molten lava still flowing on the inside. This process formed hollow tubes of rock known as lava tubes.

Collapsed tube sections easily visible from BAZ

Collapsed sections of the Undara lava tubes are easily visible from the air. They provide a cooler habitat in a generally hot environment and the resulting green vegetation contrasts markedly with the the surrounding sun-burnt land. Scientists say there are many yet undiscovered lava tubes in the Undara area but what is known provides a fascinating experience for anyone visiting this National Park.

Inside a lava tube

Leaving Undara on Monday 26 September after two nights sleeping in rather quaint old railway carriages the 3 remaining Comanches headed some 1200 km further south to our next night's destination at Charleville. The vastness of Australia's outback is best appreciated from an aircraft…hour on hour the landscape hardly changes. Cruising at 9,500 feet the air temperature was still a warm 18'C and in every direction smoke haze limited visibility. 

Undara sunset

Charleville marked the final night stop for Comanche-3. From here we would split-up and individually proceed as Comanche-1 aircraft. Ian and Irene with VH-MMN had something like a non-stop 5 hour flight back to their home base at Tyabb, south of Melbourne, while Tony and Jan in VH-TSJ (Julie) had a marginally shorter flight to their home at Bendigo. After sharing 44 days and nights of adventure together we had gotten to know each other very well (warts and all) and so it was with appropriate respect to emotions that we each made our farewells.  

BAZ at Undara

We waved good-bye to the departing Comanches then convened a crew meeting in the Charleville airport cafe. The outcome decision of this meeting was to fly BAZ to Brisbane, around 2.5 hours flight to the east of Charleville, and have a couple of days sampling city life in Brisbane.  The Bazflyer's next mission is the Australian Comanche Society annual general meeting at Dubbo in two weeks time...and an opportunity for a Comanche-5 team get-together. 

On approach into Brisbane / Archerfield

Baz Copilot

Baz Captain

Meanwhile, BAZ is 'parked' under cover at Brisbane Archerfield airport (thank you Jim Peters for the hangar) and the Bazflyers have resorted to 'passenger-travel' for a couple of weeks catching-up with family back in New Zealand. 

Pearl Harvest

BAZ got its engine oil and filter changed at Horn Island. The newly overhauled motor installed two months earlier had clocked-up 50 hours and it was time to switch from running-in oil to the engine's normal diet of multigrade aero oil. Sometimes the most routine task can deliver a 'left-hook' and on this occasion it was an over-tightened oil filter from the engine overhaul shop. Clearly tightened by a muscle-man on steroids the oil filter simply refused every effort to unscrew it using conventional means. Fortunately, it did succumb to a less conventual turning force applied applied via a long sharpened steel rod driven through the filter housing. Thanks Garry for the steel rod, use of your grinder and loan of a big hammer…! 

Horn Island is one of many islands that make up the Torres Strait Islands. During WWII it served as an important staging post for aircraft and units bound for Papua New Guinea. B17, B25, P38, P39, P40, Beaufort and Catalina all past through Horn Island. The airstrip was bombed several times by Japanese aircraft between May 1942 and June 1943. Today the old war-time airstrip, appropriately improved, is the main airport for the Torres Straits. 

Double Trouble

The main administrative centre for the Torres Strait Islands is on Thursday Island. Then there is Wednesday Island and maybe even other islands for every day of the week. However, today was Friday so it seemed appropriate we should visit Friday Island, famous for its cultured pearls. We were picked-up from the Horn Island wharf by Peter and his wife in their very new all alloy craft aptly named "Double Trouble". Powered by two 150 HP outboard motors this purpose build front-ramp loading craft seemed ideally suited for plying the islands and it rode very well on the choppy sea that had been wiped-up by the wind and tide for our late afternoon return journey back to Horn Island. "Double Trouble" can load tractors, vehicles and all manner of goods. It even has an air-conditioned galley. After dropping us all back at the Horn Island wharf Peter and his wifely crew were off to load a Bob-Cat that was required for a job on another island. Now was that cargo for Tuesday or Wednesday…? 

Captain Peter

Today was definitely Saturday and the day Comanche-3 were to fly to Undara. If you want to get ahead of the next blog post visit www.undara.com.au

Pearl Harvest

Six countries in six weeks

Bob Bates was on hand to welcome the Comanche-5 when we landed at Mount Hagen. Bob is the Managing Director of Trans Niugini Tours and at 73 years of age is an avid aviator and adventurer. Only a few weeks earlier Bob had flown his Baron (P2-BOB) in a circular route over the South Pacific as far east as the Marquesas Islands and back to his base at Mount Hagen. Bob has chronicled some of his many flights which can be viewed via this link. Early next year Bob plans to circumnavigate South America with a friend flying in a Cessna 182. 

Bazflyers' route through PNG

Two nights at Bob's Rondon Ridge lodge, a wonderful retreat sited high above the Wagi Valley, was a welcome relief from the hot and humid coastal climate.  Last stop on our Coral Sea Safari was Bob's wildlife lodge, Bensbach which is situated in the far south-west corner of Papua New Guinea. The weather on this sector proved mildly challenging. Taking-off from Mount Hagen airport at an elevation of 6,000 feet, we settled BAZ in at an altitude of 9000 feet then for much of the next hour zigzagged either side of track weaving our way among towering cumulus clouds. 

Bensbach Lodge

Bensbach is a wildlife wonderland. It is also accredited with being the Barramundi capital of the world so any visit would not be complete without a fishing expedition. We departed down river by flat bottom boat in the pale light of dawn passing awaking villages, deer and wallaby by the hundreds, crocs sliding off the river banks and teaming bird life. It took several hours but we did land our Barramundi which weighed in at 6kg…all credit to a skilled local fishing guide. That night we dined on the freshest Barramundi ever, reminisced on the past six weeks and bid emotional farewells. Bensbach marked the last night on our Coral Sea Safari and the successful completion of a great flying adventure….some might even say the flight of a lifetime! Six weeks, 6 countries, five Comanches and 10 adventurers. 

BAZ fishing 

6kg of Barramundi

Thursday morning, a 50 minute flight to Daru for exiting Customs and Immigration formalities, then a 45 minute hop across the Torres Strait to Horn Island and entry formalities into Australia….the Coral Sea Safari was over! Jim Peters (VH-ESL) and Jim Barry (VH-DCB) began their respective journeys home. Ian, Irene, Tony, Jan and the Bazflyers were looking forward to a couple of nights stay on Horn Island. 

Bazflyers at Bensbach

Since leaving home base in Taupo, New Zealand, ZK-BAZ has flown 30.5 hours. 

Return to Goroka

18 September 2011

It takes just 30 minutes to fly from Madang on the north coast to Goroka situated at 5200 feet in the Eastern Highlands of Papua New Guinea. The contrast between these two locations couldn't be greater. Hot and humid on the coast to cool and comfortable in the highlands. 

Comanche-5 flew into Goroka via the Goroka Gap which can be described as an 8,000 foot ridge between two 10,000 foot mountains. This short flight over high mountains and into the central highlands held an element of trepidation for some of the Comanche-5 pilots. However, the weather gods were good, the gap was wide open and in no time at all the Comanches were lined up again this time on Goroka airport.

Goroka International Primary School

The Bazflyers and family lived in Goroka from 1978-1983 and to our amazement not a lot had changed in the intervening 28 years. Our short day visit coincided with the Goroka Show, an annual event that showcases cultural groups from near and far. Going to the show we went past Goroka International Primary. Our boys received much of their early education at this school and Sandra was a teacher there. 

Show Crowd

Show Girl

Weather conditions in the highlands invariably produce late afternoon rain storms. Not wanting to be caught in adverse conditions Comanche-5 flew out of Goroka for Mount Hagen early in the afternoon.

Flying to Mt Hagen

Wartime Rabaul

17 September 2011

Rabaul lays claim to the finest natural harbor in the Pacific. Perhaps because of this natural asset it also saw fierce action in both the First and Second world wars. 

Rabaul Harbour

Prior to the First World War, Germany occupied the northern coast of Papua and the eastern islands. Australia's early contribution to the Allied cause in the First World War involved the capture of German possessions in the Pacific. At dawn 11 September 1914 forces landed near Kokopo to capture an inland German radio station. After fierce fighting the Germans surrendered on 17 September 1914….97 years ago to this very day.

Japan entered the Second World War in December 1941 and very soon afterwards claimed Rabaul as a strategic base for its plan to capture Port Moresby. By early April 1944 Allied Forces had encircled Rabaul. Japanese naval and air force units had already abandoned the base leaving some 90,000 Japanese soldiers to withdraw overland. Mopping up and containing the remaining Japanese forces was left to the Australian Army, a task that involved much hard marching and fighting. Royal Australian and New Zealand navies and air forces also played a major part in operations which ended with the Japanese surrender

War Cemetery

Commonwealth dead in these campaigns number some 7,000. Their names are commemorated on headstones or memorials in the war cemeteries in Lae, Port Moresby, Rabaul, Fiji and New Caledonia. Exceptionally navel burials at sea are commemorated on memorials, at home ports for the Royal Navy, at Plymouth in England for the Royal Australian Navy, and at Auckland for the Royal New Zealand Navy.

Our visit to the well maintained Rabaul War Cemetery was a very moving experience. This cemetery contains 1,111 burials of the Second World War and commemorates 1,215 others who have no known grave. Nationalities include Indians, Fijians, Papuans and one New Zealander. The cemetery also contains 28 burials of the First World War. 

"Least we forget the cost of freedom"

Back to Rabaul

15 September 2011

All to soon it was time to leave Sanbis Resort…another gem in paradise. Sunrise heralded the prospect of a good flying day ahead for the run through to Papua New Guinea. 

Sanbis Resort

Prior arrangements had been made to pick-up Customs and Immigration officers from Gizo and ferry them by Sanbis speedboat over to Gizo airport. Like a mirage they appeared on time all smartly attired to stamp passports and the all important General Declaration that is required for an aircraft to enter the next country. Prior arrangements are notoriously casual in the Solomon Islands so the early arrival of government officials was greeted with some measure of disbelief. We had earlier been told news of our five 'private jets' flying through the Solomon Islands had made the national newspaper. Certainly the presence of five aircraft, private jets or otherwise, on Gizo airport at one time would have been a first since WWII. However, whatever the motivation departure formalities were completed ahead of expectations and by 9am Comanche-5 had settled in at 8,500 feet cruising on the direct track from Gizo to Tokua Airport, near Rabaul in Papua New Guinea.

Passing Bouganville

Rabaul is where our Coral Sea Safari was conceived almost exactly one year ago. The idea arose as the participants of today's Comanche-5 group of flyers were relaxing in the tepid sea-water off Kokopo Beach Resort…and so it was, in the manner of a ritual that we all gathered once again in the sea off Kokopo Beach Resort. As surely as the sunrise earlier that day it did not take long before the topic of conversation became focused on the prospect of a future safari somewhere else. Although we had yet to fly across Papua New Guinea before touching down in Australia, our return to Rabaul via the Coral Sea route symbolized the realization of a significant Bazflyer achievement.

Landing Tokua Airport

Tomorrow is the 36th anniversary of PNG Independence. The Bazflyers and their family were in Aitape in 1977 for the 2nd PNG Independence Day celebrations. How time passes…! 

Ballale Island

Yesterday Comanche-5 flew to Ballale Island a remote uninhabited flat island located just 20 NM south of Bougainville. The opportunity to visit this place held a mixture of emotion and anticipation.

The Japanese Navy 18th Construction Battalion arrived at Ballale on November 3, 1942 to build an airstrip. Labour was augmented by 517 British POWs transported from Singapore. A significant number of Zero fighters and Betty bombers were later based from the airstrip. However the fortunes of war changed and Ballale was by-passed when allied forces leap-frogged from Honiara to attack Rabaul. Jananese forces hurriedly withdrew from Ballale abandoning most of their aircraft but not before they executed all of the remaining POWs. Many relics remain. One of many Zero aircraft reclaimed from the island jungles of Ballale in the late 60's was later used in the film "Tora Tora".

After the war, Australian Army personal landed on the island on November 10, 1945 and immediately located the grave of 57 POWs buried in shallow trenches. An atrocities commission was carried out on the island, that led to the discovery of a mass grave, 436 bodies were exhumed with artifacts identifying them as British artillerymen. The remains were re-interred in individual graves at Bomama War Cemetery near Port Moresby. The remainder of the 517 British POWs have never been found. Standing infront of the simple memorial stone at the airfield, with the temperature hovering around a  sweltering 45"C, one could only imagine the 'hell' those POWs endured to build that airbase….

Ballale also holds WWII history significance for another reason. After American forces had managed to crack the Japanese encryption code they learned of a trip by Admiral Yamamoto to fly from Rabaul to visit his troops on Ballale. American Cobra aircraft, flying a circular route from Henderson Field, intercepted the Japanese aircraft formation before it reached Ballale and shot down the Betty bomber that was carrying the Admiral. This event in April 1943 had a major effect on the changing tide of the Pacific war.

Ballale is not a place that's easily forgotten..visiting the island is a rare privilege….thank you BAZ.

Gizo

Gizo is the second largest town in the Solomon Islands, and serves as the provincial centre to the Western Province. It is situated on the island of Ghizo (different spelling, same pronounciation). The main street runs along the water-front and has the out-of-character appearance of a shanty town lined with small stores and an open air market. People of the Western Province are famous for their beautiful stone carvings. The artistry of these carvings are amazing…such a pity we couldn't load another one or two hundred kilos into BAZ...! Its a short 15 minute boat ride from Gizo to our accommodation at Sanbis Resort. In every direction there are palm tree studded islands ringed by coral reefs and clear waters. One such island, only a short kayak paddle from Sanbis, is Kennedy Island named after the late US President, John F Kennedy. It is the island where the young Lt. John F. Kennedy aided his injured crew after his boat, the PT-109 was rammed by the Japanese destroyer, Amagiri in WWII. Two American sailors died in the incident.

Bloody Ridge

Our 560 nm flight from Santo to Honiara seemed to pass much quicker than the four hours it actually took. To ensure separation between the Comanche-5 group we maintained communications between aircraft on 123.45 Khz and advised our positions at 30 minute intervals. Such activities along with the usual radio banter between aircraft all helped pass the time; and so we found ourselves on descent into Henderson Field, the war-time aerodrome that now serves as Honiara's airport.

As we brought BAZ down from a cooler cruising altitude we were afforded a commanding overview of Guadalcanal. This seaway is so littered with the remains of WWII warships it is referred to as 'Iron Bottom Sound'. On the downwind leg of our landing circuit for runway 06 we overflew the beaches on which thousands of young American soldiers came ashore in 1942. Base turn for final approach took us past 'Bloody Ridge' and a site off the end of Henderson Field that was home in 1943 for my former Royal New Zealand Air Force squadron, No 3 Squadron, and their Ventura Bombers. Even before we had landed this place radiated a strong aura of war history. 

Bloody Ridge

Claimed by the Jungle 

RNZAF Memorial

Over the next couple of days in Honiara we visited and stood vigil over many significant sites marking one of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific campaign of WWII. Places that claimed the young lives of thousands of American and Japanese soldiers, sailors and airmen. The average age of an American soldier in this battle was just 18 years!

Guadalcanal was the southernmost extremity of Japan's advance. The battles to control the surrounding sea-lanes and air space over this relatively compact area proved hugely costly for both the Japenese and allied forces. Any surviving veterans of Guadalcanal are now approaching their nineties, and relentlessly the passage of time is also eroding the visible remains of battle. Ships rust and the jungle reclaims its territory…. 

Leaving Honiara behind Comanche-5 flew north west over hundreds of beautiful tropical islands before making landfall again, this time at Gizo in the Western Province. 

Approach to Gizo Airport

Bomber Strip #3

Its three weeks since we left New Zealand behind and headed northwards in BAZ. Santo represents  some 3000 kilometers travelled out of Kerikeri and 13 hours flying in BAZ from home base at Taupo. The following map depicts our flight route up to Santo and onto Honiara:

Our route through the Coral Sea chain of islands emulates a well travelled flight path during the Pacific campaign of WWII. During this time aircraft were constantly shuttling back and forward connecting the battle-grounds of the northern war theatre to Australia and New Zealand. Many relics of this busy time remain visible if one takes time to look around. Here and there an old rusty quonset hut, a weather eroded concrete slab or a piece of rusting machinery. Sadly, much of the history of this remaining war-time infrastructure is also being eroded with time. Successive generations either don't know or relate stories modified with the passage of time. 

Santo was the most northern safe haven and a significant American support base during the war period. The town of Luganville on Espirtu Santo was entirely built by American troops and much of the infrastructure remains fully operational today. Sewerage, drainage, roads and buildings all functioning as testimony to the construction expertise of the renowned Sea-Bees. Four airfields were built near Luganville. Yesterday when standing on the remains of Bomber Strip #3 it was possible to imagine a scene of B17 aircraft hauling their ordinance loads into a tropical sky.

Tomorrow we will take-off from Pekoa Airport, located just a short distance from Bomber Strip #3, and point our Comanche's towards Honiara along the same flight path of many WWII aircraft flying north-west out of Santo into the Pacific battle zone….!  

This B17 made it home only to run out of fuel just 500 meters from Bomber Strip #3

Big day out

Our hosts here at Moyyan had organized a 'Big Day Out' for us. We all gathered on the deck at 9am, Cameron the chef provided a picnic lunch 'to-go' and Carlo duly arrived in his Paradise Tour van….and what a great day it was. Santo is famous for its strikingly beautiful beaches and amazing blue holes. So off we went to sample the offerings. Carlo shared his local knowledge as we traveled between one outstanding beach and yet another fresh water blue hole with an obligatory swim at each stop. 

Champagne Beach is typical of the many beaches along the east coast of Espiritu Santo. It is strikingly beautiful and for good reason. It has a wide shoreline of soft, white sand and the water is translucent blue. The soft sand continues several meters into the water, so you can wade in without worrying about cutting up your feet on sharp coral. Snorkeling provides access to a color filled underwater fantasy land. 

The Blue Holes are something else again. Crystal clear fresh water percolates up out of the ground to fill a giant swimming hole. All this is fringed with lush tropical growth to create an wonderfully beautiful amphitheater containing the clearest turquoise water on earth.  That evening ten tired bodies dined in true Moyyan style before retiring to bed and the lullaby of waves lapping the shore.

There is a NZ helicopter working out of Santo Airport supporting an American 'bones' team who are excavating a couple of WWII aircraft crash sites. The helicopter pilot is Rob McPhail who used to live in the Goroka compound when we were there and flew for Pacific. What an unexpected catch-up bridging 35 years which we plan to continue over a lunch tomorrow. 

Monday morning will see Comanche-5 continuing the journey on to Honiara. This leg is is some 560 NM in a straight line and at 4-hours it is the longest flight we have all trip. Naturally we are wishing for fine weather and a tail-wind…! I was out at the airport yesterday checking on the planes and got talking to the local chap in command of the Flight Service tower. He reckons the last time there were five small airplanes on Santo aerodrome was probably WWII and asked if we might indulge this fantasy with a 'one-behind-the-other' fighter plane type of takeoff and low pass over the airport before we head to Honiara. We all recon such an invitation should be taken seriously…..!

Bali Hai

Comanche-5 flew a scenic route from Vila to the northern island of Espiritu Santo…Vanuatu's largest island and simply referred to as "Santo".  Pre-departure formalities at Vila airport took some time. Paying for refueling, airport fees, and handling charges involved separate transactions each performed in an unhurried and pleasant manner that so typifies daily life in Vanuatu. Time consuming but throughly stressless…! 

Santo International Airport

An hour and fifteen minutes after leaving Vila behind we were on the ground at Santo International Airport. Neither large nor busy but its one return flight from Brisbane each week bestows international airport status on this former WWII aerodrome. Santo was a strategic military base during World War II, where up to 100 000 soldiers were based. During this time, James A Michener, then a lieutenant in the American Army, was stationed in Santo. Such was the effect of this place on him that here he wrote the legendary Tales of the South Pacific from which sprang the musical South Pacific. From Santo, Michener would gaze across the sea to a volcanic island, often with its summit shrouded in cloud and dream of "Bali Hai".  

After topping-off fuel tanks in preparation for the next flight leg and securing the Comanche aircraft for our 6-night stay at Santo, we piled into two vehicles and headed to our accommodation. www.moyyan.com Could there possibly be a better place to dream of Bali Hai.....?

Jan, Vivien, Sandra & Irene

Captain BAZ

Vila Market

We have been traveling for three weeks now and what a wonderful three weeks it has been. As we have been traveling I have noticed many signs and bill boards advertising eco tourism and encouraging people to save our planet and to make only light footprints on our earth.

While we were eating dinner at the 'Flaming Red Bull Steak House' in Villa on Sunday night some of us tried to think of solutions, and ways that we could make a difference. It all seemed a little ironic as here we are using up fossil fuel to transport ourselves around the Coral Sea in our Comanches. needless to say we had lots of ideas and it will be an on going discussion I am sure.

On Monday I went to the local Villa markets, the fruits and vegetables would make any gardener proud; and any chef would be excited to see the range and quality of the produce. However what stood out for me was the packaging that many of the vendors were using - talk about the ultimate in recycling. Sweet potatoes were sold in biodegradable palm baskets, bananas come in their own natural packaging and are attached naturally to their own carrying stick, take-a-way meals are displayed on banana leaves, and then wrapped in the banana leaf and tied with a piece of natural fibre. These are a few of the fine examples of how we could all give back to the earth.    

Vila market

Healthy take-away meal for under $2

Perfect packaging