Baby BAZ

The dream of freedom of flight often includes the dream of flight. The whole concept of being “as free as a bird” is so strong in many of us that one wonders if, perhaps, man really was meant to fly.

Flying airplanes and helicopters has always been an integral part of the Bazflyer’s life and now in retirement years the legacy of flight continues with Piper Comanche, ZK-BAZ. Over the past eight years this marvel of aerodynamics has taken us to many wonderful places, introduced us to new friends and in every way continues to fulfill the dream of flight.

However, for those who would rather risk time and money, rather than life and limb, building and flying model aircraft can also be the fulfillment of a flying fantasy. A man of many talents and with a life-long interest in aviation, my good mate Laurie can undisputedly lay claim to being an accomplished radio-controlled model aircraft builder and flyer. In recent months his ‘home’ aircraft factory has amazingly produced an almost authentic radio-controlled replica of ZK-BAZ.

Two weeks ago I was in attendance at the Greenmount Model Aircraft Club for the successful first flight of ‘Baby” BAZ, with my good mate Laurie at the controls!

Preflight complete and ready to taxi. Just like the full sized Comanche, "Baby" BAZ has retractable undercarriage, flaps and fully functioning flight controls.



Posing with my good mate Laurie holding "Baby" BAZ

Going Back Home

Much like a balloon in flight, the Bazflyers always aspire to live their lives with an ever-going forward philosophy. It is therefore somewhat ironical when we say, “we’re going back home”, but what a difference it makes if it's said “we are looking forward to being back home”.

Waking up each morning to pleasant warm conditions so typical of the winterless northern latitudes of Australia rapidly annuls any thoughts for those less fortunate souls buried in the depths of a southern winter. However, as our flights assumed more southerly headings with ever increasing latitudes, seasonal realities of the Southern Australian weather could no longer be ignored. Kalgoolie was unpleasantly cold and to inject an element of apprehension the weather forecast painted a looming nasty scenario with associated high winds, turbulence and icing conditions. 

Rather than staying put until the frontal system passed across the Great Australian Bight we decided to quickly move-on East remaining ahead of the weather. This turned out to be a very good decision. Nine hours flight time from Kalgoolie, much of it above a solid layer of cloud and an overnight stop at Port Lincoln, saw the Bazflyers comfortably settled in the northern NSW town of Dubbo. Looking ahead was a 2-3 day trans-Tasman weather window.

The flight back home across the Tasman Sea commenced from the coastal town of Port Macquarie. Conditions over the ocean were near perfect along with a handy tailwind to boot. Wheels down for a landing at Lord Howe Island occurred just 2-hours after takeoff followed by another 3-hours flying onto Norfolk Island. The timeliness of our trans-Tasman crossing was reinforced as we listened to higher altitude airliners on the HF radio reporting severe icing and turbulence. The next day's flying from Norfolk Island all the way through to Taupo was similarily uneventful in clear skys. 

Taxing up to the Baz Base hangar and seeing the excited faces of our waiting grandchildren reinforced for us the wonderful emotion of being back home, a life-treasure to look forward to…!

And as for our timing. We avoided the weather system by a narrow margin of just eight hours. One night at home and the Bazflyers awoke to the first of a succession of cold wet days.

Early morning departure from Port Macquarie, NSW

Approach to land at Lord Howe Island

Back home evening arrival at Lake Taupo

"Biggles" the mouse stowed away on ZK-BAZ prior to departure. His amazing journey...well that's another story for another day. What can be said is the grandchildren were excitedly looking forward to have "Biggles" back home

Forest

It was the physicist Isaac Newton who famously proclaimed that every action has an opposite and equal reaction. Aircraft pilots learn very early on during their initial flight training that every aeroplane very definitely operates on this principal. One of the obvious action and reaction paradigms is burning fuel to provide forward thrust. A simple translation; more fuel is required the longer the distance to be flown. 

The great arid Nullabor Plain stretching for over 1,000 kilometre separates West and East Australia with the wild Southern Ocean on its flank. Travelling by road or rail across this sparsely populated natural barrier is usually measured in days, so it is not difficult to see why the faster mode of air travel has always been a preferred means of travelling between East and West. Which brings me back to Newton and the fact that airplanes require stops to refuel.

Somewhere near the middle of the 'Nullabor', as it is usually referred to, is the tiny settlement of Forest with a population of just one couple and Wally their adorable Basset Hound? The locals who are normally in-residence for a sojourn of eighteen months, look after the strategically important all weather airstrip, refuel aircraft or vehicles, greet itinerate travellers and otherwise take care of this historic location.

While crossing the Nullabor from Kalgoolie to Port Lincoln in the east, the Bazflyers dropped into Forest, replenished the Comanche's fuel tanks and our own. A well needed coffee was served with delicious freshly cooked muffins. In our opinion, Forest may well be the friendliest and most positive town we have ever experienced. 

Perhaps Forest sitting beside the longest straight section of railroad in the world, is no where near as critical to transport as it was in the very early days of air travel, motor cars and steam locomotives, but the Bazflyers would be reluctant to ever overfly this gem of a place even it it was to simply say "hello" to the locals, and of course, Wally.

Airport Terminal at Forest International 

 

Forest Airport Operations Centre

Bazflyers card is added to the Forest wall of fame where it proudly sits beneath a former Comanche flyer and Australian aviation icon

Saying hello to Wally

Kalgoolie

Some hotels are salubrious, some are better termed as 'flea pits', but then there's the Palace Hotel smack-bang in the middle of Kalgoolie. This icon of a former age not only has a name that belies its obvious former status, it is also a hotel with stories to tell.

In the late 1890’s, Kalgoorlie’s streets were a flurry of construction and development as the wealth generated in the gold mines was flaunted in grand and impressive architecture. The Palace Hotel, built in 1897 was designed to be the most luxurious hotel outside of Perth.

As one popular story goes; former US President, Herbert Hoover, worked in the Kalgoolie goldfields for several years when he was a young mining engineer. During this time he reportedly fell in love with a barmaid at the Palace Hotel before leaving to marry his college sweetheart and later rising to take the American Presidency in 1929. In memory of his special years as a patron of the Palace Hotel he gifted a elaborately carved mirror that still stands in the foyer of the hotel.

One night in the town screamed for more and has prompted the Bazflyers to append Kalgoolie to their visit again list.

The Palace Hotel

Herbert Hover's elaborate mirror gifted in memory of the beautiful barmaid 

Mining means holes in the ground and there's plenty of them like this one visable when flying into Kalgoolie airport

Tom Price

Despite occasional rain and a washout or two on the road, the drive from Karijini to Tom Price was uneventful. 

Tom Price is a mining town supporting the nearby huge Mt Tom Price iron ore mine. A town and mine named to commemorate an American geologist, Thomas Price. Tom arrived in the area in the very early 60's and was instrumental in convincing the mining companies to mine in the area. He also played a major role in lobbying the State and Federal Government to allow mining to proceed and for the ore to be exported. Sadly he passed away after returning home to America, only two hours after being told of the very rich ore deposit discovered on a mountain in the town.

On the road leading into Tom Price we spotted a turn off signposted as a lookout. Quite amazing, the vehicle parking area was completely surrounded by mounds of rocks, each bearing painted or inscribed mementos dedicated to deceased loved ones obviously placed there by visitors from all four couriers of the globe. 

Unseasonal Rain

It's so confusing. Throughout northern and central Australia, we are told Winter is the dry season and it rains throughout the Summer months. However, this year folk in the know say it was a dry wet-season and the Winter so far has been wet....! Well, if today is anything to go by it has been both wet and cold. Bazflyers spent the day in their 'Eco-tent", wrapped in blankets all the while watching precipitation fall from an overcast and gloomy sky. On a positive note, the normally dry landscape is unseasonably green and lush which must be confusing for the wild flowers....some species have clearly decided to call an early Spring.

Wild flowers enjoying an unseasonable early Spring

Puddles of red mud reflect the world above

Ecco-tent

Looking out onto a wet (cold) Karijini

Karijini

All landscapes can be looked upon as a manifestation of geology over time. However, the Karijini landscape is altogether in another realm. It's geology has been beaten, weathered, warped and worn in a way that's only possible with the passage of eternal time. Descend down into the cool depths of any accessible gorges of Karijini National Park and you are overwhelmed with a sense of going back in time. Hard rock formed of ancient seabeds, squashed, rolled and tossed, are exposed on display a thousand kilometres from the nearest ocean and over 2,000 feet above today's sea level. Karijini has the oldest geology on our planet and this makes for an unique landscape indeed.

Add to this unique place a distinctive indelible ochre-red soil, so fine in texture and determinedly pervasive that every surface in nature is imbued with a non-reflective patina. The sun doesn't dance here, it simply rests.

Pilbara

Today, one of the three Comanche aircraft from our safari group departed Broome on a two day journy back east. Meanwhile, the Bazflyers in company with the other remaining aircraft, relocated some 1000 kilometres further south to the red-earth mining centre of Paraburdoo. A purposeful town with a generous all weather airport and appropriately for us its our gateway to some of the specular attributes of the Pilbara. Known for its Aboriginal peoples, its ancient landscapes, the red earth and its vast mineral deposits, the Pilbara also has some of Earth's oldest rock formations.

"Red" aptly signifies the Pilbara region of West Australia 

Flight route IFR from Broome to Parabardoo via a refuelling stop at Port Headland.

Port Hedland with a natural deep anchorage harbour is where iron ore mined in the Pilbara is shipped to world markets. Ore is moved by railway systems on trains measuring many kilometres in length and making Port Headland the highest tonnage port in Australia.

Fitzroy Crossing

Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, Fitzroy Crossing is surrounded by the vast floodplains of the Fitzroy River and its tributary Margaret River. The small settlement has a mainly indigenous population and supports tourism, cattle stations and mining. Judging by the highly visible swarm of grey-haired people occupying predominately white coloured 4x4's with a travel home hitched behind, we might assume the tourist industry side of Fitzroy Crossing is doing rather well. However, the Bazflyers not to be confused with the 4x4 brigade, are of course airborne travellers and dropped in on a one-night stand to visit the picturesque Geikie Gorge. The beauty of this gorge speaks for itself.....

Overflying the Argyle Diamond mine on-route to Fitzroy Crossing, the largest diamond producer in the world and home to the pink diamond

Geikie Gorge from above....

The gorge from below....

.....and inside

Shepherds delight sunset at Fitzroy Crossing

Preparing to depart Fitzroy Crossing

The next leg of our safari was a lengthy flight deep into the northern Kimberley region and ended with landing at the truly picturesque Cape Leveque. 

Tides along the Kimberley coast rise and fall up to 15 metres. Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high.

Cape Leveque

Safely down on the deep red ground at Cape Leveque 

Broome

PLeaving behind a very pleasant few days at Cape Leveque the Bazflyers headed south following the long white sandy strip of the great West Australian coastline to land at the historic pearling centre of Broome. Although the town might no longer lay claim to its former status as the world's foremost pearling centre it can legitimately be called a modern day pearl. It is a gateway to the magnificent wilderness region of the Kimberley and also home to the world-famous white sands of Cable Beach. Perhaps not so well known is the town's historic association with the telecommunications industry after which Cable Beach is named. This snippet of history was of special interest to the Bazflyers given their business association with the modern telecommunications industry.

One of the marvels of the 19th century was the electric telegraph. The world's first submarine cable was laid in 1850 and connected Dover in England to France. A boom in cable production followed and in 1872 Australia was connected to London via a cable across the Timor Seal between Darwin and Java. Seabed geology and volcanic activity in the Timor Sea was not at all understood in those times which resulted in frequent cable breakages so much so an alternative cable route quickly became a priority. 

Broome was the preferred site and when the new cable became operational in 1889 this rough-and-ready pearling town assumed a critical telecommunications role connecting Australia to the world beyond. Broome maintained this status through to 1914. 

In those days telecommunication messages were relayed by individual operators using Morse Code. For twenty-five years the telegraphic operators in Broome were privy to messages of every shape and flavour flowing into and out of Australia....the mind boggles!

A coast that is beautiful every day and in every way

Sunset on Cable Beach

Trying a diving helmet for size. 

HV8

I'm A relatively short flight in clear blue-sky conditions had the Bazflyers safely repositioned some 200 km west of Kununurra. Our new stop-over for two nights was Home Valley Station. Stoically perched on the western reaches of the mighty Pentecost River the property is an amalgamation of three historic pastoral-holdings and covers a mere 3.5 million acres. Accounting for cattle on a property of this scale relies on individual livestock carrying an identifiable brand which for Home Valley Station is HV8.

Owned by the Indigenous Land Corporation on behalf of the traditional land dwellers, Home Valley Station operates a training program for indigenous peoples who are involved in all aspects of the station's operations including tourism, horticultural and pastoral enterprises. Significantly, this program is perhaps the most positive indigenous venture we have witnessed on any of our Australian travels. 

On landing at the homestead airstrip we were met by Alfie, an indigenous Australian and a graduate from the training scheme. Just before sunset Alfie transported us via a well used Land-cruiser to an elevated spot, where comfortably seated and with drinks in hand, we watched in awe as rock formations on the distant Cockburn Range danced in the setting sun. Then to supplement the nature show an articulate, knowledgeable and always smiling, Alfie graciously shared his story and culture with us.

Landing at HV8

Alfie

Pentecost River

Waiting for sunset

Setting sun dancing on the Cockburn Range

Harsh environment 

Dinner music

The Kimberley

West Australia is quite simply one huge chunk of planet earth; an ancient landscape forged and tempered by millions of years of sun and rain. Like the newcomer it is, Australia's newest town Kununurra, sits tentatively just inside the State's north eastern boundary. To illustrate the vastness of the Australian West, it is almost the same drive time to cross the continent to Brisbane on the east coast from Kununurra, as it is to motor south to West Australia's State capital of Perth.

"The Kimberley" is what locals define as Western Australia’s sparsely settled northern region. It comprises large swaths of wilderness, rugged mountains, dramatic gorges, outback desert and isolated coastlines. The region has a wonderful history from the ancient civilisation of the Australian Indigenous people, to European explorers such as the Durack's from Ireland who paved the way for today's pastoral industry. 

Bazflyers always enjoy unearthing snippets of war history and appropriately it was the Kimberley coast that witnessed the only Japanese force to land in Australia during World War II. A small reconnaissance party came ashore in January 1944 to investigate reports the Allies were building large bases in the region. They investigated the York Sound area before returning to Kupang in Timor. 

Tidal river systems are like arteries feeding water from the hinterland down to the sea.

In the wet season these waterways spill over and fill the landscape from horizon to horizon 

Eye catching mountain ranges are almost as old as time itself

Wild life inhabitants are as facinating as the geology