Fitzroy Crossing

Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, Fitzroy Crossing is surrounded by the vast floodplains of the Fitzroy River and its tributary Margaret River. The small settlement has a mainly indigenous population and supports tourism, cattle stations and mining. Judging by the highly visible swarm of grey-haired people occupying predominately white coloured 4x4's with a travel home hitched behind, we might assume the tourist industry side of Fitzroy Crossing is doing rather well. However, the Bazflyers not to be confused with the 4x4 brigade, are of course airborne travellers and dropped in on a one-night stand to visit the picturesque Geikie Gorge. The beauty of this gorge speaks for itself.....

Overflying the Argyle Diamond mine on-route to Fitzroy Crossing, the largest diamond producer in the world and home to the pink diamond

Geikie Gorge from above....

The gorge from below....

.....and inside

Shepherds delight sunset at Fitzroy Crossing

Preparing to depart Fitzroy Crossing

The next leg of our safari was a lengthy flight deep into the northern Kimberley region and ended with landing at the truly picturesque Cape Leveque. 

Tides along the Kimberley coast rise and fall up to 15 metres. Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high.

Cape Leveque

Safely down on the deep red ground at Cape Leveque 

Broome

PLeaving behind a very pleasant few days at Cape Leveque the Bazflyers headed south following the long white sandy strip of the great West Australian coastline to land at the historic pearling centre of Broome. Although the town might no longer lay claim to its former status as the world's foremost pearling centre it can legitimately be called a modern day pearl. It is a gateway to the magnificent wilderness region of the Kimberley and also home to the world-famous white sands of Cable Beach. Perhaps not so well known is the town's historic association with the telecommunications industry after which Cable Beach is named. This snippet of history was of special interest to the Bazflyers given their business association with the modern telecommunications industry.

One of the marvels of the 19th century was the electric telegraph. The world's first submarine cable was laid in 1850 and connected Dover in England to France. A boom in cable production followed and in 1872 Australia was connected to London via a cable across the Timor Seal between Darwin and Java. Seabed geology and volcanic activity in the Timor Sea was not at all understood in those times which resulted in frequent cable breakages so much so an alternative cable route quickly became a priority. 

Broome was the preferred site and when the new cable became operational in 1889 this rough-and-ready pearling town assumed a critical telecommunications role connecting Australia to the world beyond. Broome maintained this status through to 1914. 

In those days telecommunication messages were relayed by individual operators using Morse Code. For twenty-five years the telegraphic operators in Broome were privy to messages of every shape and flavour flowing into and out of Australia....the mind boggles!

A coast that is beautiful every day and in every way

Sunset on Cable Beach

Trying a diving helmet for size. 

HV8

I'm A relatively short flight in clear blue-sky conditions had the Bazflyers safely repositioned some 200 km west of Kununurra. Our new stop-over for two nights was Home Valley Station. Stoically perched on the western reaches of the mighty Pentecost River the property is an amalgamation of three historic pastoral-holdings and covers a mere 3.5 million acres. Accounting for cattle on a property of this scale relies on individual livestock carrying an identifiable brand which for Home Valley Station is HV8.

Owned by the Indigenous Land Corporation on behalf of the traditional land dwellers, Home Valley Station operates a training program for indigenous peoples who are involved in all aspects of the station's operations including tourism, horticultural and pastoral enterprises. Significantly, this program is perhaps the most positive indigenous venture we have witnessed on any of our Australian travels. 

On landing at the homestead airstrip we were met by Alfie, an indigenous Australian and a graduate from the training scheme. Just before sunset Alfie transported us via a well used Land-cruiser to an elevated spot, where comfortably seated and with drinks in hand, we watched in awe as rock formations on the distant Cockburn Range danced in the setting sun. Then to supplement the nature show an articulate, knowledgeable and always smiling, Alfie graciously shared his story and culture with us.

Landing at HV8

Alfie

Pentecost River

Waiting for sunset

Setting sun dancing on the Cockburn Range

Harsh environment 

Dinner music

The Kimberley

West Australia is quite simply one huge chunk of planet earth; an ancient landscape forged and tempered by millions of years of sun and rain. Like the newcomer it is, Australia's newest town Kununurra, sits tentatively just inside the State's north eastern boundary. To illustrate the vastness of the Australian West, it is almost the same drive time to cross the continent to Brisbane on the east coast from Kununurra, as it is to motor south to West Australia's State capital of Perth.

"The Kimberley" is what locals define as Western Australia’s sparsely settled northern region. It comprises large swaths of wilderness, rugged mountains, dramatic gorges, outback desert and isolated coastlines. The region has a wonderful history from the ancient civilisation of the Australian Indigenous people, to European explorers such as the Durack's from Ireland who paved the way for today's pastoral industry. 

Bazflyers always enjoy unearthing snippets of war history and appropriately it was the Kimberley coast that witnessed the only Japanese force to land in Australia during World War II. A small reconnaissance party came ashore in January 1944 to investigate reports the Allies were building large bases in the region. They investigated the York Sound area before returning to Kupang in Timor. 

Tidal river systems are like arteries feeding water from the hinterland down to the sea.

In the wet season these waterways spill over and fill the landscape from horizon to horizon 

Eye catching mountain ranges are almost as old as time itself

Wild life inhabitants are as facinating as the geology

Winter Solstice

As the sun sunk beneath the horizon this evening Monday June 20, night closed on the shortest day of the year for anyone in the Southern Hemisphere and that included the Bazflyers. This astronomical phenomenon is referred to as the Winter Solstice. However, tonight is no ordinary solstice. For the first time since 1967 the solstice coincides with a Full Moon and being exactly on the solstice, this full moon doesn’t just rise as the sun sets but is also exactly opposite the sun.

The sky was perfectly clear for the Bazflyers at Kununurra who were truly privileged to witness this once in a lifetime solstice sun set and full moon rise while floating on the mirror-like surface of Lake Kununurra. We'll have to wait another 46 years before we can see the full moon on the solstice again and somehow the prospect of Bazflyers being around on June 21, 2062 might indeed be an even rarer event.

Kununurra

Take a straight line out of Darwin airport on 208 degrees magnetic, fly 475 km and you will arrive at Kununurra airport. Along the way this flight traverses vast areas of tidal wet-lands bordering the Timor Sea. Beneath the Timor Sea lie considerable reserves of oil and gas. Gas from the fields is pumped up to 500 km to the worlds largest LPG refinery at Wickham Point in Darwin. The Bazflyers have been told this giant construction project currently employes something like 10,000 people.

Meanwhile, down at ground level the vast expanse of wet lands is a virtual haven for Barramundi and crocodile; but flying along at 4,500 feet and viewing it from the relative comfort of BAZ's cockpit, the tidal landscape assumes the appearance of a great artwork painted on a primeval canvas. 

Tidal wet-land landscape

Kununurra is the furtherest west the Bazflyers have yet been in their Comanche ZK-BAZ. It's an interesting small rural town born from the giant Ord River dam, associated irrigation farming and of all things, diamonds!

Approach into Kununurra 

Fertile farmlands

The great Ord Dam project ensures the region has water-a-plenty in the dry season which is amply replenished with every annual 'wet'.

These signs are definitely for real

Litchfield

Litchfield National Park, with its lush woodlands, spectacular waterfalls, sparkling plunge pools and tall termite mounds is a popular day trip from Darwin and was also chosen for a Bazflyer day-out. It is a perfect place to see surreal, tombstone-like fields of giant termite mounds. Million-strong armies of tiny blind termites have built these architectural edifices' perfectly aligned on a north-south axis, hence the name 'Magnetic Termites'. The alignment provides the maximum effective solar absorption which enables the termites to maintain the consistent levels of warmth and humidity they require. 

A large mound may house up to a million individual termites including the queen, king, reproductives, soldiers and workers.

Wangi Waterfall in Litchfield National Park

Viewing a sight...

......like Florence Falls

For aviation buffs like the Bazflyers, there are several derelict WW2 airfields in and around the Litchfield area. Their former runways that once hosted Spitfires fighters and many other aircraft of the time have long ago given way to the creeping undergrowth. However, for anyone with more than a passing interest the sites are a humble reminder of the protracted air war that occurred over Darwin. 

One of these former WW2 airstrips is still in regular use. This is the Bachelor Airstrip that during the Darwin campaign hosted a significant American presence and General Mac Arthur's B17 bombers. The bombers flew missions from Bachelor all the way up to the Philippines. Nowadays the airstrip is used primarily for skydiving and gliding.

Of course after a day in the sun relaxing in a river pool is....obligatory!

Rambling Around Darwin

Darwin's proximity to South East Asia and countries such as Indonesia and East Timor gives the city a characteristic feel very different to any of its southern cousins. Indeed the Bazflyers might say it has a laid-back tropical ora comparable only to Cairns. 

Central shopping area

V8 Supercar week brings many visitors and activities into town

There're called the V8 Supercar ambassadors 

Northern Territory House of Representatives - outside....

.....and inside

Harbour front perspective 

Interesting

Early evening the Bazflyers joined with what seems like everyone living in Darwin to eat and browse the stalls at Mindil Beach Sunset Market. This twice weekly vibrant market is something of a local institution. Like Darwin, the market is a melting pot of cuisines and cultures all showcased in the tasty food stalls.

Arafura Sunset

A boat trip out on Darwin Harbour for a specular Arafura Sea sunset and fish & chips supper. Nice...