Collecting Stories

Like incandescent sparks jumping from a spinning Catherine Wheel, our wonderful ever spinning planet delivers a continuous pyrotechnic display of simply great human stories. In a counter intuitive way it could even be said that stories make the world go round. 

Unlike trinkets, memorabilia and such like, stories do not occupy physical space or indeed any other quantitative measure. Just as well because physical space and weight are finite ‘not to exceed’ limitations when it comes to Comanche ZK-BAZ. Therefore, as far as the Bazflyers are concerned, stories uncovered while flying round the world have been accumulated without limits.

Occasionally a story uncovered today spontaneously ignites a distant memory. Then like a double Catherine Wheel they each fuse together providing an entirety new story. Such an occasion occurred during the Bazflyers visit to Vladivostok.

Two couples seated outdoors, enjoying a meal of fresh seafood in the presence of a rich golden sunset. A young local Vladivostok couple and the Bazflyers. Discussion notably centred on respective values, family and life in general. Perhaps it was the similarity of this discussion or maybe the ‘Vostok’ name of each locality or even both of these, but unmistakably a new story was born.

Forty-six years earlier in life, as a pilot in the New Zealand Air Force, Bazflyer1 served a summer season in Antarctica attached to United States Naval unit VXE-6. The so called “Cold War”, that period of geopolitical tension between the Soviet Union and the United States was at its zenith. As so it was with some trepidation that a helicopter crew were assigned for a multi-day mission flying a group of Soviet scientists from the Russian base at Vostok. Bazflyer1 was on that crew.

Exactly where the felony of friendship occurred has since been obscured in the mists of time, or perhaps it was obliterated at source with copious consumption of vodka and cognac. Wherever it took place is irrelevant when compared to the emotional reveals on that day between ordinary human beings who’s lives had become separated by a political divide. In stark reality stood good men, struggling with language communication, but sharing the same ideals for life, family and the future. It remains one of life’s special experiences unadulterated with time.

And so now fast forward through the years, two couples from two cultures enjoying a Vladivostok sunset together. A young couple and an older couple. The struggle of language communication still persists but as the Bazflyers have discovered during their round the world odyssey, people of all cultures and generations everywhere on our planet, reassuringly share the same inextricable values of life, family and future....!

UH-N (Twin Huey) belonging to VXE-6 landing at McMurdo Base, Antarctica 

Catherine Wheel firework display

Everywhere around the world the core values of life, family and future are reassuringly the same. Bazflyer1 birthday celebration hosted by Paulo owner of New Japan Aviation at Kagoshima 

Dennis and Anastasia with Bazflyers at Vladivostok 

Closing a Loop

The man in the flight control centre said, “ZKBAZ change to Fukuoka Control 119.3...have a nice flight”. With that the Bazflyers amazing Russian experience ended and it was onwards into Japan airspace and Kagoshima. 

The decision to fly eastwards from Europe across Russia to the Pacific Ocean, rather than the more traditional route via the Middle East, India and South East Asia, had unequivocally exceeded Bazflyer expectations. Thank you Evgeny and your MAK General Aviation Services team. Your unique brand of logistic support and helpful network of friendly people at every stop along the way, all neatly dovetailed to make this journey a spectacular and memorable experience. 

Landing at Kagoshima Airport ended a long 8-hour day in the Baz Office. It also closed a northern hemisphere loop round the world. However, for the Bazflyers their RTW 2019 mission is not over until Comanche ZK-BAZ touches down at home base Taupo, New Zealand. It’s an interesting statistic that returning home from Kagoshima will require about another 45 hours in the Baz Office. Perhaps indicative of how big planet earth is, or maybe a perspective on the relative remoteness of New Zealand, the Bazflyers have just spent 45 hours in ZK-BAZ flying from the UK across Russia and onto Kagoshima, Japan.

Today while accommodated in the New Japan Aviation hangar, ZK-BAZ received some routine attention from the Bazflyers. It was time for an engine oil change...and some general house keeping, or should that be office cleaning. Tomorrow the trusty Comanche with the Bazflyers will continue southwards leaving Japan for the Philippines, destination Clark Field near Manila. Any temptation to linger longer being torpedoed by a significant typhoon building in the Western Pacific and forecast to intensify in the coming days while tracking towards Southern Japan. And with that the Bazflyers are out of here.....

Postscript.....well actually it’s...NOT OUT OF HERE

The Bazflyers may have been perhaps slightly smug and self congratulatory about flying round the world without so much as what could be termed a hiccup in their schedule. That was until last night!

With everything thought to be in order for an early morning takeoff to the Philippines, a late night check by the Bazflyers revealed the critical Philippines flight approval had not been issued. Moreover, it subsequently transpired the application had not even been lodged. Approvals require 48 hour prior notice, not including weekends, and with discovery of this omission occurring late on Friday night the earliest departure for the Bazflyers out of Kagoshima was instantly rescheduled a minimum five days into the future. However, on a positive note the previously mentioned Typhoon Mitag brewing south of Japan effectively erased the prospect of any earlier departure making this delay a Bazflyer opportunity to prefer weather over administrative error. 

Having spent nearly a week in Kagoshima five months earlier, this traditional Japanese locality instantly resumed a comforting familiarity. Disappointments for the Bazflyers characteristically deliver surprising new experiences and these have already begun....

The lovely ladies at Mam’s Kitchen in Kirishima-Shi not only served a delicious hamburger, they delivered a rousing rendition of “Happy Birthday” for Bazflyer1 and presented him with a gift of their handmade cookies 

Thanks Andrey...you expertly smoothed the way for the Bazflyers arrival and departure at Vladivostok

Good bye Russia...crossing the eastern coast at FL100

Typhoon Mitag position for Bazflyers flight from Kagoshima to Clark Airport in the Philippines 

Typhoon forecast on Monday before it heads north towards Japan

Hello Japan

Nearing Kagoshima prior to top of descent for the RNAV approach Runway 16

Russian memories to last a lifetime

Diversity on the Wing

Moderate turbulence on the approach into Vladivostok Airport and a stiff crosswind for the landing was perhaps an auspicious curtain-call that bought to a close the Bazflyer’s west to east flight across Russia. Eight stops over twenty-one days, 5500 nautical miles (approximately 10,000 kms). It could be described as unparalleled ‘diversity on the wing’ along with the awesome pleasure of meeting so many wonderful people. Yes, an aviator’s dream come true...!

The essence of on the wing diversity could not have been more in-focus than when the Bazflyers stopped off in the Southern Siberian city of Blagoveschensk. Located on the ancient Amur River, the eighth largest river in the world, Blagoveschensk stares across to the Chinese city of Heihe on the other side. A short ferry journey connects the two cities thereby facilitating an interchange of local inhabitants. Rinat, an English speaking local taxi driver seemingly appeared out of nowhere to dutifully ensure the Bazflyers had an educational Blagoveschensk experience. He explained how Russian locals go across to the other side of the river for shopping while the Chinese cross-over to Blagoveschensk to purchase, in descending order...gold, furs and ice-cream.

Flying from Blagoveschensk to Vladivostok once again exposed the vastness and diversity of the Siberian landscape. Gone were the forests of Autumn gold. Below and extending outwards to indistinct horizons on every side were intertwined river systems. Then as Comanche ZK-BAZ turned southwards over the city of Khabarov towards Vladivostok, the landscape abruptly assumed mountainous proportions, a natural barrier between Russia and the Far East.

Vladivostok perhaps personifies the diversity of Russia. A significant seaport. It’s harbour connects Russia to the Pacific Ocean and is on the doorsteps of Japan, China and North Korea. Similar to everything else about Russia, Vladivostok also challenged a Bazflyer’s mind image of what it should look like.  It has the feeling of a city saturated with sea salt and wind, but is it Asian or European? 

In typical fashion, an interesting story was waiting in Vladivostok for the Bazflyers. This was the memorial to Russian submarine S-56, the first submarine to complete a round the world cruise. Commissioned in 1941 she sailed out of Vladivostok harbour on what subsequently became a highly decorated wartime voyage crossing both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans assisting allied forces. In 1954 the submarine returned to Vladivostok via the Arctic Sea. 

Round the world in a submarine could not be more diverse than the Bazflyers own journey round the world in their trusty Comanche ZK-BAZ....however, perhaps a befitting finale to what has been an amazing on the wing diversity experience across the unique vastness of modern Russia. 

Across the River Amur is the Chinese city of Heihe

History tour of Blagoveshchensk with taxi driver Rinat and his friend Natasha 

This little bear belongs to aviation enthusiast Vladimir and has been in a Soyuz to the International Space Station

Nearing the milestone turning point over the city of Krasnoyarsk 

Denis and Anastasia generously looked after the Bazflyers while in Vladivostok 

Vladivostok port connects Russia with the Pacific

C-56 the first submarine to circumnavigate the world is on display in Vladivostok 

Vladivostok by night

Siberian Autumn

What is it about the season of Autumn, or Fall as it is known in some parts of the world. It is so magical. Perhaps it’s because the splendour and colour of Autumn contradicts itself. Shorter days, cooler temperatures and falling leaves also signals the frigid embrace of another Winter just waiting around the corner. However, how can one possibly give an approaching Winter even the tiniest consideration when you’ve been gifted Russian Siberia in the glory of an amazing Autumn display.

It is the middle of September as the Bazflyers make their way from West to East across Siberia. In just six more days Russia will sadly become an archived memory. The Bazflyers will have again reached Kagoshima in Japan. They were there four months ago. However, this time instead of continuing north as before they will point the trusty Comanche ZK-BAZ in a southerly direction towards home and the first sniffs of Summer. Isn’t our planet amazing....?

The images of flying over Eastern Siberia in the height of Autumn might become an archived event but the magnificence of this spectacle can never be forgotten. 

Tomorrow the Bazflyers depart Ulan-Ude and fly 6-hours to Blagoveshchensk, a city that is only a river bank from China.

Siberian autumn splendour for as far as the eye can see

Crossing Lake Baikal on the way to Ulan-Ude 


On the shoreline of Lake Baikal 

Autumn is the end of harvesting and a time for festivals, celebrations....

.....produce displays, and...

....weddings


Autumn colours

Krasnoyarsk

Almost abruptly, as if it was a mirage raising from the seemingly endless and unpopulated Siberian landscape, the city of Krasnoyarsk came into view. Located at the very centre of Russia, arrival in this orderly and affluent city of around one million people, signalled the mid-way point on the Bazflyers amazing flight across the vast lands of Russia. 

Krasnoyarsk is a city with a ‘beating’ heart. People, culture and aviation all radiate their own unique wonderful welcoming warmth. But here at the heart of Russia, Severny airport where Comanche ZK-BAZ is parked, is perhaps a very strong contender for a Bazflyer award as one of the country’s most friendly general aviation airfields. But then what else would one expect from the very heart of this enormous country.

Then like nourishment for a good heart, Krasnoyarsk embraces the enormous Yenisei River. This aorta of water, the fifth longest river on the planet, flows from Mongolia north through Siberia, and into the the Arctic Ocean. 

Mira Avenue is the central historical street in Krasnoyarsk. Perhaps it could be likened to the pulse of this city, a place the famous author Anton Chekhov judged as the most beautiful in Siberia. Historic buildings, cafes, shops and monuments line each side of this pleasant strolling boulevard. This city is known as the gastronomic capital of Russia, and if that is not enough, heart warming great coffee is available every few steps along the way.

Tomorrow the Bazflyers again fly further east, this time to Lake Baikal. The world's largest lake (by volume) and holding more water than any other river system. Lake Baikal’s single outlet feeds into the Yenisei River.

Krasnoyarsk is in the very centre of Russia 

A very warm and friendly welcome at Severny Airport

Yenisei River flowing through Krasnoyarsk

The river viewed from a local vantage point. An Australian-Canadian expedition taking 5-months during 2001 were the first to explore the entire length of the Yenisei River by kayak.

Water is everywhere...this is one of 146 fountains in the city

Krasnoyarsk has winter ski slopes literally on its door step

 Could this be the worlds most modern McDonnalds outlet..?

Mira Avenue by night

The city is a wonderland of great coffee...almost everywhere

Gorno-Altaysk

Why fly a small single engine airplane around the world? A simple enough question to ask, you might say, but when put to the Bazflyers any relevant response is boarder line complex. Perhaps naively at first, the underlying premise for such a question was for some while misinterpreted by the Bazflyers. Why? Well when directed to the Bazflyers such a question is not normally formulated to elicit a stereotype response about adventure and seeing the world. No, not at all. It invariably spearheads a polite inquisition motivated by incredulity concerning a ‘senior-age’ couple flying a small airplane so far from their home. From a woke perspective this could be ageism...!

No such inference weighs upon the Bazflyers. Rather than viewing age as a physical and cognitive decline until the end, they have embraced the positive changes that take place as you grow older. After all ageing is a privilege denied to many. This is only too apparent as the ‘wings of friendship’ makes its way across the vast open spaces of Russia. A land where in terms of age the Bazflyers well and truly exceed the average person’s lifespan...and are pursuing an unexpected activity....which perhaps helps explain media fascination. 

However, when it comes to things old the Altai Republic of Russia, geographically lying immediately north of Mongolia, revealed many surprises hitherto unknown to the Bazflyers. Comanche ZK-BAZ alighted on the modern airport of Gorno-Altaisk, the capital of this very scenic and mountainous region. Some hours spent at the city’s imposing National Museum was an amazing history lesson with artefacts chronologically tracing an innovative culture for a period of 50,000 years.

Today’s scheduled departure from Gorno-Altaisk to Krasnoyarsk was delayed 24 hours due to on-route weather conditions, the type possessing icy fingers. Not having any desire to participate the Bazflyers chose a rest day in lieu, beneficial at times for an aged pilot’s body. Growing older means we are able to differentiate our needs from our wants while focusing on the matters in our lives that are relevant....like the occasional nap.

The Bazflyers are here

Another media interview this time in the Gorno-Altaysk airport.

And waiting for the Bazflyers at Gorno-Altaysk airport were David and Tom Berger (father & son) who are flying their very nicely equipped Cessna 185 from the USA to Australia going the wrong way round

Gorno-Altaysk (UNBG) is a very morgen airport 

Cafe lunch local style


The next sector is 800 kms to the city of Krasnoyarsk 

Yekaterinburg

There are many marvellous Bazflyer benefits inherent in flying Comanche ZK-BAZ round the world. Among them includes visiting places with challenging unpronounceable names. At least challenging for Bazflyer1 and the city of Yekaterinburg or Ekaterinburg is one such example. This is not only Russia's fourth-largest city, it is like a fusion of conceptual art with a fascinating historical subtext. 

The location of Yekaterinburg at the foot of the mineral rich Ural Mountains and on the doorstep of Asia perhaps belies it’s geographic importance. But it was Yekaterinburg‘s unique connection with Russia’s long history that caught the Bazflyer attention. 

Prominently dominate in the city’s centre is the massive Byzantine-style Church upon the Blood. A relatively new construction it raises on the site where Tsar Nicholas II, his wife and children were murdered by Bolsheviks on the night of 16 July 1918. And so ending 300 years of Russian rule by the House of Romanov and the ascent of the Communist State, initially lead by Lenin and later followed by Stalin. Yekaterinburg is also irrevocably connected to a man of vision and dedication to the Russian people, a man who in 1991 became the first Russian President, a man known simply as Boris Yeltsin. 

The nineties were a turbulent time for Russia. After the downfall of the Soviet Union, the economy collapsed. Yeltsin had the support of the entire world, but at home the economic state was in chaos and topped off with uprisings by members of his Parliament. However, being a man of destiny and born for his time in history, Yeltsin successfully established a democratic system for Russia comparable to European democracy.  

Perhaps eclipsing this surprisedly amazing city is the Yeltsin Centre  Housed in a stunning architectural masterpiece, it showcases the time-line of Russian history and highlights it from the perspective of an ordinary citizen. Look around the city of Yekaterinburg, observe people going by, have a conversation with the young generation, and as the Bazflyers did the echo of Boris Yeltsin‘s words can be clearly heard....“Russia will now never go back to the past”. 

Flight from Moscow to the city of Yekaterinburg deep inside Russia

Church upon the Blood...

...and inside the church


Yekaterinburg is a modern city...

...and a proudly growing city

Love love me do...street art abounds round every corner

Some of the street art even has an aviation theme

Sitting with Boris at the Yeltsin Centre