There’s no place like Nome

During the summer of 1898 three lucky Swedes climbed aboard an old flat-bottomed boat and made their way to the mouth of the Snake River near the site of what is today the town of Nome, Alaska. It was there on the beach these canny prospectors found gold and so settlement began. Two years later the tent town of Nome had a population of over 30,000. Nowadays the place has a population of somewhere around 3,700 and small claim gold mining is still a significant local activity. 

Nome has had a long and interesting relationship with aviation. During WW2 it was a critical staging post for aircraft being supplied to the Soviet Union under the Lend-Lease program. US pilots would ferry aircraft to Nome where they would be picked up by Russian pilots and flown across the Bering Strait and onto the Eastern Front where the Soviet Union was fighting Germany. Then there was Jimmy Doolittle. He grew up in Nome, sold newspapers for the Nome Nugget and delivered clothes for his mothers laundry service before becoming a famous aviator.

Even today this frontier town exhibits strong sentiments to its past. Muddy sidewalks, seemingly haphazard construction, salon bars and local identities combine to give Nome an unmistakable frontier character. As a local catch-phrase goes...”There is no place like Nome”.

Nome, like so much of the northern latitudes the Bazflyers have flown through in the past couple of weeks, is frozen-in for three quarters of the year. Although there were still patches of snow and ice to be seen in the streets a Bazflyer walk around the town’s boat harbour revealed the seasonal gold recovery activity was well underway. It was also an opportunity to meet some of the folk who call Nome home. 

What a surprise it was to engage in conversation with a gold claim worker named Ryan only to discover he hailed from Ipswich, Australia. Ryan and his mates Michael, James and Mikel of Lucky 7 Mining ere frantically working on their gold sluicing boat in preparation to work a claim located some 15 km up the coast. At this time of the year it doesn’t get dark in Nome which facilitates very long work days.   

Then there was Adam. He’s a crab and Halibut fisherman. Bazflyer2 says his manly bear hug embrace is an awesome experience. Sandra was another long time Nome dweller the Bazflyers spent time with and is the subject of a video interview.

There might still be gold in the ground at Nome, but for the Bazflyers meeting some of Nome’s real characters was pure gold indeed.

Circling to land at Nome (PAOM) for landing Runway 21

The team of Lucky 7 Mining

Ryan the Ozzie and Bazflyer1

Adem, the crab and Helibut fisherman


Long time Nome resident and journalist Sandra out walking one of her dogs

Magadan

When the Bazflyers were planning Round the World 2019 it would be true to say the challenge of communicating using only the English language was never fully considered. Some people are fortunately competent at communicating in two, three or more different languages. Not so the Bazflyers, coming from a mono linguistic country they only have the English language at their disposal. 

It is a fact that most of the people in the world do not speak English or, even if they use it, it is their second or third language. Such was the situation when the Bazflyers stopped over for a few days in the Russian city of Magadan. 
The formative history of this far eastern outpost of Russia is a sad tale of deprivation and misery. Its a remote place. A region of the planet where the summers are short and winters severe to the extreme. Its a place of about 100,000 people. Positive, generous people like local pilot Sergey and the incredibly competent organiser Anastasia…and there were many others. 

Magadan was definitely a place not to be judged on first impressions. Beneath the dull grey exterior of buildings there is a friendly open generosity of spirit that transcends any communication difficulties. The people of Magadan seem to understand that although not perfect, life can always be made much better. Perhaps this philosophy is why Magadan’s history, while openly acknowledged, is not used as an impediment to moving on with life.

Yes, communication in situations where people don't understand or easily comprehend each others' language can give way to fascinating processes and interesting insights.

On the airway to Sokol (UHMM) Magadan

Sergey’s unique Russian built airplane, actually he has three of them engaged in commercial work

 

 

Anastasia and the Bazflyers after landing and refuelling at Sokol Airport

An interesting artwork down by the harbour

 

 

 

Monument to all the lives lost, misery and deprivation of the history of 1920’s to 1950’s 

 

 

Meal at “Make Alaska Russian Again”…...

 

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The flight from Kagoshima followed airways along the entire western side of Japan before crossing the Straits of Soya to the Bazflyer’s first Russian destination, Khomutovo Airport (UHSS) at the city of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, a settlement located at the southern end of Sakhlin Island.

Customs and immigration out of the way it was time to refuel ZK-BAZ from two drums of AVGAS that had been expertly prepositioned for the Bazflyers use. The overall complexity of a round the world flight would be an even bigger undertaking without dedicated assistance from people who have the answers and networks at their fingertips. In this regard the Bazflyers can’t speak highly enough of MAK General Aviation Services www.makgas.com and General Aviation Support Egypt www.gasupportegypt.com. Thanks guys….!

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk began as a small Russian settlement ironically founded by convicts in 1882. Later in 1905, the end to the Russo-Japanese war of 1904–1905, saw the southern half of Sakhlin Island awarded to Japan. After the end of WW2 the Japanese portion of Sakhalin island was reoccupied by Russia. 

A Bazflyer walk around the central city area revealed many places of interest. The new military museum elevated on a hillside above the town was one exceptional discovery.

This museum with its interactive displays and emotive historic photographs, looks at a piece of WW2 history and its aftermath that Europeans and even Kiwis from down under, know very little about. 

Refuelling ZK-BAZ after landing at Khomutovo (UHSS)

 

 

 

High School graduation photos

 

 

Spring time in the town

 

 

Church on the hill

 

 

Sidewalk art

 

Streets of Kirishima

Streets of Philadelphia" is a song written and performed by American rock musician Bruce Springsteen and is a Bazflyer playlist favourite. The refrains of this iconic music were percolating in the mind as the Bazflyers took a long meander through a few of the streets of Kirishima. 

The city of Kirishima sits comfortably in the lap of a composite active volcano, Mount Sakurajima, It strikingly dominates the surrounding landscape, that is when weather conditions permit. Kirishima means “Fog Island” and true to label such have been the weather conditions during the Bazflyer’s short stay. However, today was the exception. Out came the sun, a condition that called for a long exploratory walk around parts of the city.

Kirishima’s majestic mountain and the many hot springs around its base was Japan’s first national park. Its also an ancient area of human habitation where traces of livelihood dating back to the Paleolithic Age (more than 30,000 years ago) have been discovered.

Tomorrow morning the Bazflyers takeoff again, this time flying airways along the entire western seaboard of Japan to the Russian destination of Yuzhno Sakhalinsk (UHSS). Delaying departure from Kagoshima (RJFK) by a day not only allowed the Bazflyers to actually view Mount Sakurajima, but also gave the necessary interval for a troublesome frontal system to pass-over Japan. Tomorrow’s forecast is for clear skies and tailwinds…!

With assistance from the great team at New Japan Aviation, ZK-BAZ is refuelled and prepared ready for the anticipated 7-hour journey. The critical Russian flight permit is in hand and the required IFR Flight Plan has already been filed and accepted. There is every chance the refrains of Bruce Springsteen’s song might be heard through the Bazflyer’s headsets during their flight up to Russia.

Kirishima and Mount Sakurajimi in the background and other streetscape views...

Proof it’s a live volcano...an eruption occurred as this blog was being posted and more followed...

....and here are the friendly and helpful folk from nNew Japan Aviation who handed the Bazflyer flight at Kagoshima Airport (RJFK)

Flight is a Journey

The journey from Guam to Kagoshima Airport in the south of Japan was a distance of approximately 1,365 nm (2,500 km) for a flight time of just over nine hours. It was the longest single flight the Bazflyers had ever undertaken in their Piper Comanche, ZK-BAZ. It was also the longest flight scheduled for Round the World 2019.

As preparations were made prior to descent and landing in Japan, it seemed the prior period of almost 9-hours in the air had somehow been compressed into a smaller time capsule. It did not feel like a full day had been spent flying the ‘BAZ Office’ in the sky. 

Long distance flying in a small single engine airplane is all about the journey, not the destination. It demands full and constant attention by the crew over the whole flight. Staying safe for nine hours of flight over the ocean has little to do with luck. It's all about attention to detail, judgement and making the right decisions. Its fair to say then that the Bazflyers have a well practiced in-flight regime of divided responsibility and cross-checks.

There is a sobering fact about flying a small aircraft for long distances…the journey can not be rushed. The airplane must be flown in its most efficient configuration for the distance involved. Air speed, engine power settings and fuel consumption are some of the critical parameters. Accordingly, the airplane will perform tirelessly along the way at its own pace. For the Bazflyers its about savouring every moment of the journey. 

It has been said often across time that lives are defined by the journeys we take, not the destinations we reach. However, be assured from Bazflyer experience, arriving at the destination in ZK-BAZ after more than nine hours in the cockpit provided its own special euphoria. Stepping off the wing and setting foot on the tarmac at Kagoshima Airport was no exception and then to be cordially greeted by Masahiko Noma and his team at New Japan Aviation simply completed the journey….another great flight.

The long haul north west from Guam to Kagoshima 

Carrying out cockpit duties and cross checks

A landscape of ocean below

Runway 6 Left

Guam is an island in Micronesia far out in the Western Pacific. It is part of the United States, a territory and not one of the 50 U.S. States. Because its location lies somewhat equidistant between Mount Hagen and Kagoshima Airport in southern Japan the island of Guam was chosen for a ‘Bazflyer RTW 2019’ refuelling stopover and so it was that 7 hours and 45 minutes after taking off from Mount Hagen the Bazflyers touched down at Guam Airport. 

Fifty years earlier, very close to the same day, round the world pilot Cliff Tait flew from Truk Island to Guam. In his book “Flight of the Kiwi” Cliff describes conditions flying through the Intertropical Convergence Zone, the ever present band of convective weather activity near the equator that often generates vigorous thunderstorms over large areas. In contrast to Cliff’s flight the Bazflyers were able to pick a smooth and uneventful track across the zone.

Cliff Tail describes his first sighting of Guam and radio frequency change to Agena (Guam) Tower. “Agena seemed somewhat mystified. Who were we? What sort of aircraft? Military or civilian? Where did we come from?” He further writes, “….clearance was granted to land runway 6 left”.

In a remarkable coincidence Guam Tower also cleared ZKBAZ to land at Guam on Runway 6 Left. It was one moment the Bazflyers shared with Cliff Tait as he relates in his book. “Below and ahead lay the biggest runway I had ever seen. All concrete, it stretched for nearly two miles”. 

Guam is an interesting place to visit. It became a U.S possession as a consequence of the Spanish-American war. It was a prize of war. Then on December 7, 1941 just one hour after the surprise attack on Pearl Harbour, Japanese forces landed on Guam. So began 36 months of Japanese occupation ending only after US forces recaptured the island. The ensuing Battle of Guam was one of the fearest fought battles of the long Pacific Campaign.  

Guam has its own native population, the Chamorros. A people who from the time of Spanish occupation right up to the present day, have never had a say in their political status.

The US relationship to Guam has delivered citizenship and higher standard of living to the Chamorros. Their youth have more options. However, paradoxically they have no vote in Congress or for the president. The island has almost no political power, and little control over how the U.S. uses it.

During their stay on the island of Guam, the Bazflyers were warmly hosted by Chamorro Tom and his wife, MiMi. Despite the turmoil of their island’s history these folk couldn’t have been more forgiving of the past or positive about the future. Then to add another fascinating twist, their home where the Bazflyers stayed is not far from the threshold of Runway 6 Left.

Picking a flight path across the Intertropical Convergence Zone

Looking out towards Runway 6 Left and the town of Agena

Chamorro food is as delicious as it looks and smells

The Pacific War was devastating for the Chamorro people

Tom and MiMi

Trans Niugini Tours

Papua New Guinea (PNG) is like no other place you’ve ever been. It’s a diverse country of tropical beaches, picturesque islands, volcanos, rain forests, great river systems and high mountainous terrain. It was 42 years ago this month when the Bazflyers first arrived in PNG and made the country their home for a decade. Bazflyer1 covered every nook and cranny of the country flying helicopters and airplanes. Bazflyer2 taught in schools. Their children grew up. It is no coincidence then that PNG occupies a special place in the Bazflyer archives.

There were several reasons why the highlands settlement of Mount Hagen was chosen by the Bazflyers for their PNG stopover. It is conveniently located for a comfortable seven and a half hours flight out to Guam, the next port of call on RTW 2019. Being just 5 or so degrees south of the equator and at an altitude of some 5,500 feet, Mount Hagen has a relaxing year-round temperate climate that is close to idyllic. But, the real compelling reason to touch down at Mount Hagen was to renew a long standing acquaintance with local legend...Bob. 

Bob hails from Australia but for more than fifty years PNG has been his home. Bob’s entrepreneurial talent has a visible legacy in Trans Niugini Tours but not so widely known is his lifetime of aviation. For those who know Bob well enough, he is synonymous with Beechcraft Baron, P2-BOB. The two have been an item for a very long time. However, only a few of the people who know Bob are also aware of his equally legendary aviation adventures. Many of them chronicled at Bob’s Flights.

Bob’s exploits extend far beyond tourism and flying. He is an accomplished road and bridge builder as well as a master property builder....yes, ‘Bob the Builder’ does come to mind! Bob’s building prowess is well showcased with his six unique tourist lodges culturally sited around the PNG mainland, plus his amazing river vessel the Sepik Spirit. 

Like each of Bob’s properties, Rondon Ridge Lodge, where the Bazflyers are presently staying, is typically unique in its design and culture. It sits at 7,100 feet above sea level with panoramic vistas overlooking Mount Hagen and the surrounding highlands. Wonderful friendly staff. A truly special place....but then the whole Trans Niugini Tours enterprise is the epitome of a very special person. It’s a privilege to know you ...Bob!

Sky road from Horn Island (YHID) to Mount Hagen (AYMH) in Papua New Guinea

Bazflyer at Rondon Ridge Lodge. Like no other place you’ve ever been...add Trans Niugini Tours to your ‘bucket list’...

Panoramic vista from Rondon Ridge looking out over Mount Hagen

Bob, overseeing the construction of his new road from Mount Hagen up to Rondon Ridge

Angel Number

Number 77 comprises two lucky sevens and is said to be an angel number. However, as the Bazflyers prepared to land BAZ on Horn Island today, an island located in the Torres Straits at Australia’s northeastern extremity, the number 77 assumed a special significance. 

Horn Island, similar to several other places along Australia’s northern coastlines, experienced numerous Japanese aerial attacks during the Pacific War. Over the course of the campaign, more than 150 military personnel lost their lives defending Horn Island and the surrounding area, and more than 80 civilians also died. 

Today marks exactly 77 years since the largest navel battle that has ever been fought in the South West Pacific region. This was the Battle of the Coral Sea. This battle ended Japanese attempts to launch a seaborne invasion of Port Moresby and has long been regarded as “the battle that saved Australia and New Zealand”.

Allied forces had cracked the main Japanese communication codes and were waiting for the attack. An American carrier force and allied support warships moved into position to stop the Japanese. A major battle was fought in the waters southwest of the Solomon Islands and ended 77 years ago today on the 8th May 1942. It was a battle fought entirely by aircraft attacking ships, with the opposing ships never firing at each other during the battle.

Tail piece from a Hudson Bomber damaged during the first air raid on Horn Island.

P47 Thunderbolt fuselage.

The early RAAF Roundel is still visible on this Hudson wing. Allied forces confused this Roundal for being Japanese, which was predominantly red. The Roundal was soon changed to a less confusing mark.

The ‘Towers’

Some centres of population, probably most in reality, owe their existence to a purposeful or strategic location. Perhaps it was a suitable port for seagoing vessels, or a place accessible by river craft. However, in some cases it was simply because someone discovered gold and in that case distance or tyranny was to be endured. The inland Queensland rural town of Charters Towers is one such example.

A gold discovery in 1872 founded Charters Towers and for thirty years it bought activity and people to the town. During that time the town’s population swelled to more than 27,000 and Charters Towers was Queensland’s largest city outside of Brisbane. The town also operated one of the few Stock Exchanges outside of a capital city. Affectionally known as ‘the world’ it was said that anything one might desire could be had at the ‘Towers’ leaving no reason to travel elsewhere.   

Today it is a very different activity that fuels the local economy. It is education. From distance education to boarding schools, Charters Towers has it covered. However, mining still has a place. The surrounding region is rich in coal and huge open-cut mines nearby provide jobs for anyone who desires to make their future in this unique outback community.

The ‘Towers’ certainly filled expectations for the Bazflyers who touched down at Charters Towers with purpose in mind. It was some where they had not previously visited. It was conveniently located midway between the Sunshine Coast and Horn Island, the exit port for their flight into Papua New Guinea. But....more importantly, there was a ‘golden’ opportunity to change BAZ’s engine oil and filter and give the Comanche a good look over. Bob and Ben the wonderful friendly father and son proprietors of B&B Aero Maintenance opened their hangar door and made Bazflyers very welcome. 

Ben is also an avid Paramotor flyer and the subject of a seperate Bazflyer2 video interview. A recent successful attempt on the long distance straight line world record for Paramotor flight took off from Charters Towers. With Ben’s enthusiasm Paramotor flying could well become the next ‘gold rush’ at Charters Towers....definitely!

Beautifully restored Stock Exchange building

Telling the B&B hangar dog about the just completed oil and filter change

Bob and Ben...aviation legend’s at Charters Towers

Reunion

An eclectic collection of friends is one of life’s greatest gifts and the Bazflyers are deeply privileged to chart their life through such precious relationships. They have friends who have given wisdom. Friends who have provided help in a time of need. Friends who have unconditionally applied their strength.

The following phrase comes too easily to mind which probably means it’s not an original conception. “True friendship comes when the silence between two people is comfortable.” 

Few things are more comfortable, more enjoyable, than being among true friends. At times it can be like a party for introverts. Discussion is optional. There is not a single moment of awkwardness. Even the sounds of silence between friends is beautiful.

Therefore, how satisfying it was for Bazflyer1 to spent yesterday in the casual company of friendships forged fifty-five years ago. It was no coincidence that Round the World 2019 and the principal Australian stop-over was scheduled to coincide with a reunion. A reunion of guys, now all septuagenarians, who at the dawning of 1964 came together for the first time at the Royal Australian Air Force Base of Wagga Wagga. Young teenage boys from every corner of Australia, along with half-a-handful of New Zealanders, all destined to spend two and a half years together learning trade skills and communal military life. 

For the most part 55 years of one’s life slips by far to fast but fortunately friendships are seemingly immune to time. Have you ever noticed that when friends convene after a very long absence the interval of separation is bridged in a moment of time and the friendship of old instantly resumes....once again. 

Reminiscing among familiar jet aircraft that were once the frontline of Australian built military hardware. 

Built under license in Australian the Canberra MK-20 saw operational service with the RAAF in Malaya and Vietnam.

Looking back at the F-111

The emotions of one particular Bazflyer will forever be stirred by the characteristic sound of an advancing “Huey”....music indeed.

G’day Mate

Aviation radio talk has its own standardised phraseology. It is based on a set of communication rules for simplified English language communication between an air traffic controller and the pilot of an aircraft. Brevity is a goal. Shorter communication segments mean the airwaves are available for other aircraft, an important factor with skies becoming an increasingly busy place.

Radio contacts using aeronautical phraseology begin with an aircraft identifier call sign in the case of a pilot, or the name of the airport or service in the case of air traffic control. For example Bazflyers would announce their presence to, say Brisbane Approach, with a radio transmission like; “Brisbane Approach...ZK-BAZ” Sometimes, in the spirit of cordiality the Bazflyer might inject an exclamation like “good morning...” However, you definitely know that you can only be in Australia when Air Traffic Control adds the uniquely Australian salutation of “g’day” in its radio response...! 

G’day is an Australian slang word being an abbreviation of the phrase “good day”. Another uniquely Australian term is “galah” which means “silly person”. Many guide books on Australian slang words and phrases have been published over the years....and also at Ozzie Slang. 

Kirra Beach, a typical Gold Coast beach

Power Salad meal at the Kirra Surf Club

Bribie Island sunset