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Saturday, May 18, 2019

Runway 6 Left

Guam is an island in Micronesia far out in the Western Pacific. It is part of the United States, a territory and not one of the 50 U.S. States. Because its location lies somewhat equidistant between Mount Hagen and Kagoshima Airport in southern Japan the island of Guam was chosen for a ‘Bazflyer RTW 2019’ refuelling stopover and so it was that 7 hours and 45 minutes after taking off from Mount Hagen the Bazflyers touched down at Guam Airport. 

Fifty years earlier, very close to the same day, round the world pilot Cliff Tait flew from Truk Island to Guam. In his book “Flight of the Kiwi” Cliff describes conditions flying through the Intertropical Convergence Zone, the ever present band of convective weather activity near the equator that often generates vigorous thunderstorms over large areas. In contrast to Cliff’s flight the Bazflyers were able to pick a smooth and uneventful track across the zone.

Cliff Tail describes his first sighting of Guam and radio frequency change to Agena (Guam) Tower. “Agena seemed somewhat mystified. Who were we? What sort of aircraft? Military or civilian? Where did we come from?” He further writes, “….clearance was granted to land runway 6 left”.

In a remarkable coincidence Guam Tower also cleared ZKBAZ to land at Guam on Runway 6 Left. It was one moment the Bazflyers shared with Cliff Tait as he relates in his book. “Below and ahead lay the biggest runway I had ever seen. All concrete, it stretched for nearly two miles”. 

Guam is an interesting place to visit. It became a U.S possession as a consequence of the Spanish-American war. It was a prize of war. Then on December 7, 1941 just one hour after the surprise attack on Pearl Harbour, Japanese forces landed on Guam. So began 36 months of Japanese occupation ending only after US forces recaptured the island. The ensuing Battle of Guam was one of the fearest fought battles of the long Pacific Campaign.  

Guam has its own native population, the Chamorros. A people who from the time of Spanish occupation right up to the present day, have never had a say in their political status.

The US relationship to Guam has delivered citizenship and higher standard of living to the Chamorros. Their youth have more options. However, paradoxically they have no vote in Congress or for the president. The island has almost no political power, and little control over how the U.S. uses it.

During their stay on the island of Guam, the Bazflyers were warmly hosted by Chamorro Tom and his wife, MiMi. Despite the turmoil of their island’s history these folk couldn’t have been more forgiving of the past or positive about the future. Then to add another fascinating twist, their home where the Bazflyers stayed is not far from the threshold of Runway 6 Left.

Picking a flight path across the Intertropical Convergence Zone



Looking out towards Runway 6 Left and the town of Agena

Chamorro food is as delicious as it looks and smells



The Pacific War was devastating for the Chamorro people



Tom and MiMi



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